Rob Cosman's Professional Joinery Crosscut Saw
Every hand-tool woodworker needs a minimum of three backsaws: Dovetail, Tenon, and Crosscut Saws. I designed and manufacture two different professional Crosscut Saws: my Joinery Crosscut and my Bench Crosscut to meet this requirement.
Both of my crosscut saws are specialized for crosscutting applications. My Joinery Crosscut Saw is designed for making finished, ready-to-glue joinery cuts. My Bench Crosscut Saw is designed for general crosscutting tasks.
I designed my Joinery Crosscut Saw with a thin .020 inch blade, fine 15 tpi teeth filed crosscut, and a minimal 2000th of an inch set per side. The teeth, formed with a diamond-saw, slice cleanly and precisely through cross-grain wood fibers.
The minimal set creates a small kerf that guides the saw straight in the crosscut while the shallow 1-5/8 inch depth of blade (tooth-line to brass back) helps with stability while sawing to a line. The pistol grip handle conforms to your hand for a perfect, repeatable fit every time.
Both of my saws are specialized for crosscutting applications. The teeth, formed with a diamond-saw, slice cleanly and precisely through cross-grain wood fibers. The minimal set creates a small kerf that guides the saw straight in the crosscut. The shallow depth of blade (tooth-line to brass back) helps stability while sawing to a line. The pistol grip handle conforms to your hand for a perfect, repeatable fit every time.
We offer limited edition handles in bone resin and a variety of unique species of select woods. Click HERE to see the current availability.
10% of all saw sales go to my Purple Heart Project. Click HERE to find out more about this project.
Size: Overall length (Toe to handle tip): 15-1/8 inches. Blade length (Toe to heal): 10 inches. Depth of blade under the back: 1-5/8 inches.
Weight: 18-20 ounces.
Blade: Made from .020" thick, spring steel.
Tooth Geometry: Filed crosscut at 15 teeth per inch (TPI) and a 0 degree tooth rake.
Set: Unlike most saw manufacturers who stamp out their saw teeth, leaving "dimples" in the blade, we individually cut out each of our saw teeth with a diamond saw. This allows us to maintain a very slight set of only .002 inch (per side), since we don't introduce that "dimple" onto the blade. This slight set produces a narrow .024 inch kerf that eliminates slop allowing the saw blade to accurately track in the saw kerf resulting in dead straight saw cuts with smooth ready to glue surfaces.
Brass Back: The brass back is 1/4″ thick x 7/8″ wide and is secured to the blade with peened and flushed copper pins. Not only does the brass look wonderful it imparts extra weight to the saw providing you a better balanced saw. This enables the saw to do the cutting work and helps you "feel" perpendicular.
Handle: Each of our "pistol grip" handles have memory enhancing carved finger recesses for a perfect and comfortable fit. A pair of brass split nuts secures the handle to the blade and the brass back. Our crosscut saw handles are made of ebony Swanstone, a resin-composite material reinforced with glass for durability.
Handle Size & Determining your Size: Our handles come in two sizes: Regular and Large. Please refer to the picture above showing how to measure your hand and determine what size handle is correct for you size hand.
From the very first cut, this became my favorite saw. Clean, straight, fine and feels amazing in the hand. I'm a novice woodworker, and I didn't convince myself to go for the purchase until I had a significant project on my hands where I knew I'd use it. I'd been using a decent Japanese pull saw, which could get the job done, but the difference of using the Joinery Crosscut was amazing. The fit to hand, the easy of holding the angle and keeping the cut true, and the ability for the saw to maintain such a straight cut once the kerf is started. Not only does this saw get the job done, but it feels incredible -- second only to pulling perfect shavings from a hand plane. Well designed and worth every hard-earned penny!
As an addendum to my previous post.... after using the saw a while I had the nerve to try a mitered dovetail. I wouldn’t have tried it without this saw. Yes I messed up and used the wrong marking gage and went too deep on the dovetails but the saw made the miter possible.
This is the first saw out of the box that cuts a shoulder joint and I can use that joint right from the saw. No Shoulder plane or paring needed. It tracks perfectly, and the weight is substantial, which believe it or not works in your favor with any fatigue factor from long days in the shop.
Rob's saw is a delight to use; makes me think I've ben cutting wood with a hammer before!
The saw works really well. Was a little disappointed that I didn't get any syrup though. However, the saw has been put to use and works very well.